Yellowstone Series Part 2- Canyon Village
The August weather warmed our backs as we set up camp at Canyon Village. A little over an hour away from our previous destination at Grant Village, this area felt uniquely different. The land contours ebbed and flowed in a way all on their own, here the land felt more similar to Colorado, making us right at home. Setting up the tent, my mind wandered back to our drive up from West Thumb earlier that morning. The Sulphur Caldron and Mud Volcano are both worth viewing and keenly located directly off Highway 287. They are distinctively enjoyed by the buffalo who sauntered about with ease, basking in the volcanos expelling heat. Our excitement at seeing a few buffalo, overturned when we burst from the trees directly into a large meadow where hundreds of buffalo grazed lazily. The herd boasted youngsters and adults alike, all burly and enormous and yet somehow splendid at the same time.
By late afternoon the heat had regressed as we sat around munching cold cuts and looking for our next fishing spot. We sought the areas less traversed, off the radar and untouched by the human hand. Since we were limited on time, we found a quiet brookie stream only 20 minutes away from our campsite. Loading up our gear for the second time that day, we agreed to be back in time for Frito Pies and a campfire with the family. Using the downloaded map on our cell phones, we tracked the stream until we could find a pull off that would hold the pickups. My hubby, dad, brother-in-law and myself all piled out with our fishing gear and trudged down the embankment to the meadow below.
The meadow was lively with color and the rambling stream flowing through it, only completed the picture. The moment my dry fly landed on the water, I had a fish on the line. I grinned in my excitement, glancing up to see my comrades were in similar situations. The brook trout were biting, and we couldn’t get them off the line quick enough. Brook trout will remain my favorite trout to catch, not because they are huge but because they fight like they are. You can’t forget those striking markings either, flaming red belly and fins, the bright white lines on the edges and solid yellow circles throughout all add to their beauty. As the sun set, it cast an ever-growing shadow across our faces. Realizing it was time to gather the crew, we all reconvened with tales of our catches for the day. Between the four happy fishers, we landed about 30 brookies. It was the perfect afternoon, and we failed to see another soul in that picturesque meadow. Some days it’s not just about the size of the catch but the feel of your boots in the water and a fly line zipping seamlessly through your hand.
The next morning, we woke to pancakes & sausage sizzling on the grill and a campfire popping briskly in the background. It took me only a moment to remember that today, we headed to the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone AND Lamar Valley. Without a moment to lose, I swiftly threw off my sleeping bag, pulled on a worn pair of jeans and was out of the tent within the minute. A hot cup of coffee was calling my name. A short ride to the Canyon and soon we were overlooking the lower falls and the yellow-hewed rock surrounding it. The journey to the base of the falls is well worth the work, standing safely next to that mighty surge of water bursting from the edge. The thunder of the falls, negating our voices and encompassing us with its powerful roar. Both of the viewpoints for the lower falls are worth the walk, and we all enjoyed the scenery and the views of Yellowstone River. Happy-hearted and with no time to waste, we geared up for our next adventure to Lamar Valley.
Lamar Valley is known for the fishing but also for the wildlife and bear sightings. Famously branded the prime location for Grizzly sightings in Yellowstone, we couldn’t get there fast enough. Ever since my bear encounter in Glacier National Park, I have felt a connection with these animals. I relish at every chance I have to see one of these magnificent beasts; they take my breath away every time. Our 34-mile trek to Lamar Valley from Canyon Village provided much entertainment. We were delayed by a herd of buffalo crossing the road, causing a ruckus that no tourist dare interrupt. Unfortunately, these guys seemed to be on their own schedule. Experiencing them at such a close proximity, provided us a real sense of their mass. Not a beast to be taken lightly.
Upon our arrival to the valley, we struck up a conversation with a fisherman who was leaving his favorite spot. He shared that at sunrise that day a grizzly was seen feeding on a carcass directly up from where we headed on the Lamar River. After sharing his tips and tricks for that area, we gratefully grabbed our rods and headed for the water’s edge. Lamar Valley is vast and the river itself, expansive and breathtaking. My nephew eagerly ran to the water and jumped right in; he is never one to miss out on a shot at some fun. We quickly spread out, all making certain each other were within sight and our bear spray within grasp. The hours ticked away as we perfected our techniques and pursued our prey, switching up flies and remaining patiently in wait. Periodically looking up to ensure no 1000-pound bear was waiting on the opposite shore to greet us. The sun abated, and as the cool breeze swept the valley, the fish started sipping dry flies. In a flash, the vivid colors of a healthy rainbow trout glazed the surface. I couldn’t help but smile at the grin spread across my husband’s face once he landed the fish. He carefully lifted the hefty 18-inch trout, dripping with water for a quick photo-op. We were excited at landing a Yellowstone River Cutthroat as well as rainbows . The entire family was reeling in fish that afternoon and the views encircling us were magnificent, an evening to remember on the Lamar River.
As dusk wrapped the valley in its greyish hue, we pulled out the binoculars and searched for a bear sighting. Driving slowly with windows down, it didn’t take us long to find what we were looking for in the mountains surrounding the valley. There nestled above us, far out of reach and fuzzy through the lenses were a mamma bear and her cubs. My heart leaped in excitement, warmed at the joy of seeing these majestic animals. Lumbering on, they were soon out of sight, swallowed up by the mountain itself. Hungry and yet light-hearted, we began our drive back to the campsite, cautious of the abundant wildlife that engrossed us.
The next day, we were bound for our final destination at Old Faithful. Without much room for shut-eye, we had packed every moment of this vacation full to the brim. Just the way we like it. With only one life to live, I don’t ever want to regret the little moments that make up the stories of our lives. Coming up we have the Firehole swimming area, Old Faithful and an epic meteor shower to boot, stay tuned for the third and final part of my Yellowstone series.