Yellowstone Series Part 1- Grant Village
It was with eager anticipation that we embarked on our epic adventure to Yellowstone National Park. We were scheduled to spend five blissful days surrounded by family and enthralled with our surroundings. Our trip would include nights at Grant Village, Canyon Village, and finally Old Faithful. Having visited Yellowstone as a child, I was chomping at the bit to return, elated at the prospect of fly-fishing these world-renowned waters. The drive was blissful as we passed through Grand Teton National Park, our eyes intent on not missing a single sight. The mountain ranges that dove deep into the Jackson Lake were sharp and determined in their plight. The scenery we succumbed to along our drive shone vivid and bright, boasting in its immensity. As we drove beyond its borders, we vowed to return to explore the Grand Tetons in the future.
Yellowstone is overwhelming from the moment you enter the park; highway 287 glides quietly past large rivers, overgrown forests, and expansive lakes. All intertwined in their brilliance and seemingly effortless in their long existence. We entered the park at the south end and spent another hour blown away by the views as we headed to Grant Village(West Thumb Geyser Basin). Lewis River jostled along on our right, creeping beside the highway until we reached Lewis lake and falls. Known to be a great fishing spot, we were disappointed we lacked time to throw in a line. Between here and Grant Village the Continental Divide inconspicuously snaked across the road and continued, diligent in its pursuit. Reaching Grant Village, we pit-stopped at the General Store and were not disappointed to find all the necessities needed including firewood. With Colorado on a strict fire ban for the summer of 2018, we were overjoyed at the prospect of our first campfire. We quickly checked into our campsite and set up camp while enjoying a local brewski from Snake River Brewery called Earned It IPA. The campground was spacious and quiet for an early evening as we settled in, trying to relax from our busy road trip.
Never still for long, we were itching to check out the area and soon found ourselves back in the car headed for the West Thumb of Yellowstone Lake a short 10-minute drive. West Thumb geyser is stunning and expansive, intricate layers built from thousands of years of continued pursuit. Wooden walkways worn deep from years of traffic, encompassed the area, allowing all to admire the geysers and nature surrounding us. The pools steamed relentlessly, and the geyser water burned to the touch. Crystal clear blue, the more massive geysers lunged deep underground, far from the human eye. As impressive as these were, it was the small geysers, bubbling up and frankly unnoticeable that truly caught my eye. One day, they would join the system of larger geysers, all united in their quest.
Later, we landed at the beach front and fervently unloaded the rod vault. Grabbing our packs and heading to the water's edge. Joined by only a few fellow travelers, braving the chill of Yellowstone Lake. Following the shoreline, we crested a hill and soon found ourselves utterly isolated. Studying the contours of the lake, we realized this was not going to be a killer fishing spot as we had hoped. Unfortunately, the water we were able to reach from shore was much too shallow and the temperatures too high. Less than dejected, we opted for pulling off our shoes, rolling up our pants and wadding into the lake. As my grandmother says when life gives you lemons make lemonade. It was chilly but refreshing and flawlessly clear. The sun warmed our faces, unfortunately, dimmed by the smoke from the California fires. Once we had our fill, we headed back to camp to meet up with the arriving family. Later that evening, we inhaled the sweet, smoky scent of the campfire. The stars above us stood stark and crisp against the deep blackness of night. The only thought on my mind, we are FINALLY here!
As planned, we rose with the sun to pick up my dad for fly-fishing. The morning air chilled our faces, and the innate need for coffee our common denominator. Packing up camp, we headed to the world-famous Fishing Bridge. In the 70’s, the tailwaters of Yellowstone River became so overfished they eliminated fishing there altogether. Now, it stands silently in its pristine beauty, forever preserved for future generations.
Checking in at the visitor center for hot fishing spots, we headed above the Fishing Bridge about 15 minutes to a stretch of river that was known to catch fish. Yellowstone does not require you to have a Wyoming fishing license; instead, they provide their own license, available at any of the visitor centers. In Yellowstone, the fishing is limited to specific areas to ensure the fish can spawn without interference. Preservation is the mission of Yellowstone, and great care has been taken to ensure the next generation enjoys this place just as we have.
Below the Sulfur Caldron, we found a smooth expanse of river that was deemed perfect. Clear to no fault, Yellowstone River is as deceivingly wide as it is profound. With a hopper-dropper in play, I glanced up to see fish rising further across the river. Quickly changing my rig to a dry-fly, I waded out, only to be sucked more than chest deep into the current that threatened to topple me. Lesson learned. It was not the first rodeo for these fish, and unfortunately that day, they safely remained out of our grasp. Several hours later and all options exhausted, we headed empty-handed to meet the rest of the clan. While disappointment threatened the edge of our periphery, the beauty and serenity that surrounded us were more than pacifying. Now, we headed to our next stop at Canyon Village, in pursuit of the fish and ready to enjoy the kind of company that keeps your heart warm long after you part ways. The adventure was just beginning after all…